This is one of the most straightforward techniques for creating a PCB without specialized equipment. The desired copper foil pattern is transferred onto the copper-clad board, and then a specially ground engraving cutter (similar to a steel saw blade) is used to cut along the edge of the pattern, going as deep as possible into the board. After that, the excess copper foil outside the design is removed. A hand drill is then used to create holes where needed. The key steps here are ensuring the design is clearly visible and strong enough to withstand the cutting process, and carefully removing the unwanted copper from the edges. If done properly, this can be done in small sections using fine-tipped pliers. This method is ideal for small experimental boards or simple circuits.
Second, the manual drawing method:This involves directly drawing the circuit layout on the copper-clad board using a pen, followed by chemical etching. While it seems simple, it's actually quite challenging, especially with modern electronics that have small components and tight pin spacing. The lines drawn must be precise and hard to correct once made. The choice of materials is crucial—many people use red nail polish mixed in a syringe, which works well if the tip is properly prepared. Others prefer a paint strip dissolved in anhydrous alcohol and applied with a duck-bill pen. Here’s how it works:
Take a piece of shellac (available at chemical stores), dissolve it in three parts of absolute alcohol, and add a few drops of gentian violet to give it a distinct color. Once fully dissolved, you can use this mixture as a protective coating. Before drawing, lightly sand the copper surface to ensure good adhesion. Use a duck-bill pen, adjusting the stroke width with the nut on the pen. You can draw straight lines with a ruler or triangle, resulting in smooth, even lines. You can also add text, symbols, or labels anywhere on the board. If the solution is too weak, add more paint; if it's too thick, dilute it with a bit of alcohol. Mistakes are easy to fix—just use a matchstick wrapped in a cotton swab dipped in alcohol to gently erase the error and redraw.
Once the design is complete, submerge the board in a ferric chloride solution for etching. After the copper is removed, clean the board with anhydrous alcohol to remove the protective paint. Finally, apply pine oil for protection. Since the alcohol evaporates quickly, store the paint in a sealed bottle to maintain its consistency. When reusing, simply add more alcohol if it becomes too thick.
Third, the stencil method:1. Pre-cut symbol method: You can purchase pre-cut symbols and tapes from electronic stores. Common sizes include D373, D266, and D237. It’s best to choose black paper-based or red plastic-based materials. Tapes come in various widths like 0.3mm, 0.9mm, and so on. Select the appropriate symbols and tapes based on your circuit design, then stick them onto the copper surface. Use a soft hammer, such as rubber or plastic, to press them firmly, especially at corners and joints. If the board is cold, warming it up with a heater can improve adhesion. Once everything is in place, proceed with etching.
2. Self-adhesive paper mapping method (recommended): Use software like Protel or PADS to design your PCB, then print the layout onto self-adhesive paper using a stylus printer. Stick the paper onto a cleaned copper-clad board and cut out the areas that need to be etched. Soak the board in a ferric chloride solution, then clean and dry it before use. This method is much faster than engraving and ensures clean, accurate lines. Some DIYers prefer diluted nitric acid instead of ferric chloride because it etches faster—within five minutes—but be cautious, as it is more corrosive and dangerous. Always wear gloves and goggles when handling these chemicals.
Fourth, the mime printing method:This technique involves placing wax paper over a metal plate and engraving the circuit diagram directly onto the wax paper at a 1:1 scale. Once engraved, cut the wax paper to fit the board size. Apply a mixture of paint and talcum powder to the wax paper using a brush, then press it against the copper plate. This method allows for repeated use and is great for small batch production. For more precision, you can use a photoelectric photo printing machine to automatically engrave the wax paper according to your design.
Fifth, the hot melt film method:This technique was found online but hasn't been personally tested. First, print the circuit diagram on 80g copy paper at a 1:1 scale. Then, replace the fax paper in a fax machine with a hot melt film (if available). Place the printed diagram in the machine and use the copy function to transfer the image onto the film. Next, use double-sided tape to attach the film to the copper plate, making sure it’s flat and wrinkle-free. Brush a thin layer of paint across the film in one direction only, avoiding any back-and-forth motion that could cause wrinkles. After drying, the circuit is ready for etching. For multiple boards, create a wooden frame and use a screen to apply the paint evenly. If mistakes occur, they can be corrected with additional paint and a bamboo stick. Be careful not to apply too much pressure when brushing, as this can cause the lines to smudge or break.
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